Hey all!

I just wanted to say that the last 24 hours have been crazy here as I have been trying to get my 6000 running.  The PC wouldn't even power up when the power button was pressed.  I am using an EPoX 8k5a2+, which should be safe.  I also tried an ASUS P3B-F with version 5.0 bios, also should be safe but no power up either.

I woke up today and tried again on the 8k5a2+ .  :)  I pulled all my cards (USB2.0, RAID0, NIC, sound)  no power to any drives.  I had both hands with crossed fingers, and pressing the power button......  At first I couldn't believe it had powered up and then I saw this!  [smiley=beer.gif]

PS - I was powering the 6000 with my Voodoo Volts.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/6000bootupscreenshot.jpg

Congratulations man!!!  Glad to see everything went well and is up and running.  :) 8-) :o  Can't wait to see more pictures and hear about your experiences with the legend.

Three words... :)

Unreal Tournament Screens! ;)

...when you have time, some GLiDE snapshots Please! 8-)

I will do some testing and screenshots.  I also have access to a HD camcorder, so I was going to do a short video too.

What are some suggestions for testing and doing screenshots?  I have Fraps installed.  Not sure where to get or how to run Q3A timedemo.  I have UT and UT2003 and UT2004, also Descent3.  What else?

A must have program for taking screenshots in Glide games is Hypersnap. (as FRAPS just doesnt have the support for older operating systems/Glide)  Not freeware, PM me for details.  ;)

Q3A Benchmarking - (ensure to patch to v1.32)

Type the following into the console: (~ key)
/com_maxfps 999
/cg_drawfps 1
/timedemo 1

To run the default demo:
/demo four

When the demo finishes, go back to the console to see the average fps. You could also make an autoexec.cfg with the commnads above. (should be saved in the /baseq3 dir)

Unreal Tournament Benchmarking - (ensure to patch to v436)

Download UTBench - (Instructions in the zip)

You'll want to get the unofficial patches for UT from HERE as well  ;)

http://www.oldunreal.com/

...they make a big difference! 8-)

Congratulations  :)

Corect me if I am wrong , but the EPoX 8k5a2+ sometimes has a slightly later type bios which means it wont support a 3.3v card. Doesn't it have usb 2.0 as well so no need for the add on card?

The 8k5a2+ is the 2nd last motherboard built by EPoX to support the AGP 2x4x  standard.  Lastly being the 8k5a3+.  Yes, this board does have onboard USB2.0 ;)

Here's some info on Q3A timedemo:

1280x1024 - 32-bit         1024x768 - 32-bit            800x600 - 32-bit
noAA - 23.7 sec - 53.1 fps   noAA - 20.6 sec - 61.3 fps   noAA - 19.4 sec - 64.9 fps
2xAA - 45.4 sec - 27.7 fps   2xAA - 29.6 sec - 42.6 fps   2xAA - 22.1 sec - 56.9 fps
4xAA - 196.4 sec - 6.4 fps   4xAA - 56.5 sec - 22.3 fps   4xAA - 37.5 sec - 33.6 fps
8xAA - xxx.x sec - x.x fps   8xAA - 275.7 sec - 4.6 fps   8xAA - 89.5 sec - 14.1 fps

1280x1024 - 16-bit         1024x768 - 16-bit            800x600 - 16-bit
noAA - 20.5 sec - 61.3 fps   noAA - 18.7 sec - 67.5 fps   noAA - 18.6 sec - 67.7 fps
2xAA - 33.7 sec - 37.4 fps   2xAA - 24.2 sec - 52.0 fps   2xAA - 20.3 sec - 62.1 fps
4xAA - 61.5 sec - 20.4 fps   4xAA - 41.6 sec - 30.3 fps   4xAA - 30.1 sec - 41.9 fps
8xAA - 223.9 sec - 5.6 fps   8xAA - 86.8 sec - 14.5 fps   8xAA - 57.2 sec - 22.0 fps

UT Timedemo:

1280x1024
noAA - 75.28 sec - 10.91 min - 90.16 max - 39.03 avg fps
2xAA - 85 sec - 20.45 min - 66.31 max - 34.57 avg fps
4xAA - 102.58 sec - 19.87 min - 42.80 max - 28.65 avg fps
8xAA - 189.95 sec - 6.63 min - 22.85 max - 15.47 avg fps

My V5 6000 PC specs:
Windows XP Professional
AMD Athlon 3000+ CPU
EPoX 8k5a2+ motherboard (recapped with Rubycon capacitors)
2x 1GB Corsair XMS DDR ram
Turtle Beach Santa Cruz soundcard
Adaptec RAID0 card w 2x 37GB Raptors
160GB IDE backup drive
1GB NIC
DVD Burner
Floppy drive  :)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/V56000boxpic.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/V56000boxpic1.jpg

Veeeery nice!  Great choice with the Antec Nine Hundred case, one of my favorites.  I see the molex to 1 pin power adapter solution is working just fine. :)  It's always awesome to see a virgin V6k w/o reworks working like a champ.  Congrats again!  I'm looking forward to future updates.

Powered by a custom Molex to 1-Pin power adapter.   8-)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/th_V56000Q3A-UTBench.jpg

Congrats ! I can't imagine how much you was happy when the computer booted for the first time  :)
Hope this (having a V56K working) will arrive one day to me  ;D

:) Thanks!

When I booted the V5 6000 for the first time, the PC wouldn't boot.  No beeps, just a flicker of power, then nothing.....

It turns out that the custom Molex to 1Pin power adapter I made for the card was not done correctly.  I had reversed the wires and that prevented the PC from starting.  LOL  Luckily no damage was done.  I was worried that the card had died while in my acrylic box (either from moisture or static electricity).

So after thinking I had a dead card.... I was even more excited that the card worked that Sunday morning.   :)

Glad to hear that the reversal of wires did not do any unwanted damage to the card.  So with this new found discovery, did I build my cable incorrectly? (not that I would use it as I have the internal power hookups, but just incase)

Yellow molex wires (+) to the black dc plug wire with white lettering. (+)
Black molex wires (-) to the black dc plug wire . (-)

http://www.falconfly.de/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1240959281/60#60

rottentreats, it is very easy to check polarity of the cable connection.

The DC plug has an inner part and an outer part. Inner must be linked to the +12V (yellow wire) of molex connector, while the outer must be linked to the ground [GND] (black wire) of the molex connector. If you need to verify the connection of your cable without any doubts, take a multimeter, put one lead into the inner of DC plug, while with the other one make contact with the molex pin soldered to the yellow wire. Double-check: make the same with the molex pin soldered to the black wire, but this time touch the outer part of the DC plug with the multimeter's lead.

P.S. Set your multimeter on the [Ohm] value

Thank you sir, I have been putting off getting a new multimeter, and was curious if there was a standard for how the wires are marked.  I just bought a new multimeter and should have it soon. :)

rottentreats wrote on 19.05.10 at 18:58:54:

Yellow molex wires (+) to the black dc plug wire with white lettering. (+) Black molex wires (-) to the black dc plug wire . (-)

This is the correct wiring:

Yellow molex wires (+) to the black dc plug wire (+). 
Black molex wires (-) to the black dc plug wire with white lettering. (-)

2D is looking good!  :)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/6000inwindows.jpg

UT Screenshots
1280x1024
First five - 4xAA
Last four - 2xAA

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/lavagrid.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/lavaclose.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/redelectricity.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/underground.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/worldbackground.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/sky.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/console.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/water.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm241/razr_x/snap022.jpg